The wind blew hard and mixed dust with history. I had to look closely to know the dust was history. The guide motioned, “Genghis Khan entered through this gate”. I looked around. Nothing indicated that history’s greatest conquest began at… Read more ›

A plantation house near Charleston, South Carolina. The door was locked. We peered through the windows. A simple room revealed itself. The pedestal simply said “Coffin Point Praise House”. A sign waited “Keep this historic site open. Donations are greatly… Read more ›

Part of an essay series. See Egypt, Japan, Guatemala. For explanation of references, see the end notes. A gentle rain fell on the Roman ruins. But we were far from Rome on this quiet plain in Morocco. We were in… Read more ›

My list of NYC places not on the standard tourist beat. Museums Morgan Rubin Tenement Food Bakeries Breads bakery : Get babka and almond croissants Bien Cuit: Overfermented loaf. Hungarian Pastry Shop Nick & Sons Patisserie Tomoko Chocolate Kahkow Mariebelle… Read more ›

It was impossible to believe. The pyramids rose before me, massive, monolithic, and ancient. Ancient beyond reckoning. So ancient that they appeared like mirages fluttering in the desert wind, as if transmogrified down the march of centuries, shifting in and… Read more ›

We stood on the beach and stared at the three phantasmagorical volcanoes. Those volcanos floated on an azul lake; a shimmering cerulean mirage of a lake; a lake of eternal spring; crested by three perfectly symmetrical volcanoes whose veridian verdigris… Read more ›

Read while listening to Ital Tek – Strangelove. I entered the gallery. Rows of gilt, bronze Buddhas arrayed before me. Each Buddha floated in a glass box. Each Buddha was reflected fourthly, by the the four enclosing glass panes. But… Read more ›

Beautiful Travels Full moon over pagodas in Bagan, Myanmar: This was impossible to capture and impossible to describe. The full moon, low on the horizon,  centuries-old pagodas outlined against it. Unbelievable. With Haksing, Karn, Eric, Ma. Worthington glacier hike, Valdez,… Read more ›

Humphreys Peak 10 miles RT/3133 feet elevation gain. Humphreys Peak is Arizona’s highest peak at 12,633 feet. It’s actually the remains of a stratovolcano which blew up. I think that’s really cool. And it’s right next to Flagstaff! The hike… Read more ›

I hiked the best road-accessible hikes in Alaska in July 2014. Here’s everything you need to know. I’ve aimed to simplify your choices instead of being exhaustive. Harding Ice Field, Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward Elevation gain: 4000 feet Roundtrip:… Read more ›